Addict Recommends: (Restaurant) Piccolo Teatro, Sausalito, California

In a small restaurant in one of the coolest towns in one of the superlative counties in America a diamond is being born. I say “being born” because this aptly named “Little Theater” seems to be in a constant state of becoming, of evolution in a lively synthesis of regional cuisine, sustainability, originality and tradition. The management points to the influence of the Veneto Regione of Italy as a starting point for a discussion involving the cuisine. But to me this restaurant is so much more than can be described by the lexicon of any one region or style of cooking.

Located at 739 Bridgeway in the heart of downtown, Piccolo Teatro is a sophisticated blend of simple, time tested and classic comfort food with innovative twists reflecting the diversity of the Bay Area. A side dish as simple as the sautéed winter greens dances with the perfect balance of garlic, chile and lemon. The pasta and meatballs would be more appropriately named “meatballs and pasta,” if one were to accurately reflect the percentages. The Ragu of rabbit and polenta is rich but the flavor is cut perfectly with pecorino cheese. Don’t forget to order a salumi plate as an appetizer: the quality of the prosciutto, sopressata and coppa is simply unrivaled. And you’ve got to try the butter beans, an otherwise straightforward side that is coated luxuriously in truffle oil.

Piccolo Teatro serves lunch daily and breakfast on the weekends, but my four visits have always been at dinner time. This allows me a one hundred percent certainty of enjoying their excellent bar before I get into my meal. They have, hands down, the best martini olives I have ever tasted. Their wine list is discriminating, and well represented by a healthy number of unique Italian selections.

And if all that I have described isn’t enough to bring you in, let me tell you with absolute certainty that the service equals if not exceeds the quality of the food, wine and spirits. From the management to the servers, bartenders and even the bussers, cordiality and knowledge are the touchstones. These are people that are proud to work at this restaurant and want to share that pride with its patrons. Run, don’t walk, to Piccolo Teatro.